Thanks John and all for your replies.
This helps quite a bit, although I don't think I'm going to attempt the jack
reseating - can't see so don't want to fool around with a soldering iron and
don't have any sighted help. I've assembled many bare-bone computers in my
day and the drive replacement sounds simple enough.
From: email@example.com [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org] On
Behalf Of Neon John
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: Archos HD Upgrade
On Mon, 6 Mar 2006 15:22:33 -0500, Vincent Mistretta <email@example.com>
>Any limitations to disk capacity on the Archos using RB 2.5? Do I need to
upgrade anything else on the unit besides the HD? I realize most of the
larger drives have 8MB Cache so I assume I have to use the 8mb version of
the Archos RB.
There is a 120gb limit imposed by the USB bridge chip. Other than that, any
2.5" drive will work. You'll want to find the slowest, lowest power
consumption drive that you can. I have a 100gb 4200 rpm Toshiba drive in my
JBR and love it. Much longer battery life than with the original drive.
Any 2.5" EIDE drive will work. No need to upgrade the memory. The cache
doesn't do anything in this environment.
The upgrade process is thus:
Format and load the drive external to the JBR if you can to save time.
Pop the 4 torx screws and lift off the bumpers and back cover.
Lift up the old drive and pull it out.
Insert the new drive and lay it in place.
Put the covers and screws back on.
Fire it up and enjoy.
With a power screwdriver I can do it faster than I can describe it. I use a
$30 external USB2-to-EIDE adapter that I got from New Egg to format new
drives and load them with rockbox and music. The adapter is faster than the
internal USB bridge plus you can transfer your files directly from the old
drive if you have two USB2 ports or a good hub.
While you have the cover off, take a look at the power jack. I have several
JBRs and have found a couple with the jack misplaced so that one side is
jacked up off the board a little. This is mechanically weak and will result
in a rapid solder joint failure and intermittent charging.
If your jack is canted, take some needle nose pliers, insert one tang in the
jack, put the other on the PCB and GENTLY squeeze while touching the 3
solder pins with a hot iron. Make sure the tang on the PCB doesn't end up
on one of the solder pads. Move the iron rapidly between the pads so that
all three are molten at the same time. The jack will snap into place.
Optionally drizzle a little thin superglue between the jack and board to
further secure it.
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little
minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
Received on Tue Mar 7 09:11:44 2006