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Subject: Re: JukeBox in the car
From: SteamShip (steamship_at_sbcglobal.net)
Date: 2004-01-16

Just out of curiosity Glenn, why do you want to go to all that trouble when
you will get the same FM quality sound using the $30 broadcasting module
that I mentioned? I have enjoyed being able to take it with me in anyone's
car. Maybe you have a high quality multi-component car system, but my
experience traveling in most cars where you need to hear sirens and other
outside noise, leads me to the conclusion that it would be hard to get
significantly better sound while on the road.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Ervin at Home" <GlennErvin_at_cableone.net>
To: <rockbox_at_cool.haxx.se>
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: JukeBox in the car

> Hi Chris,
> That sounds too difficult to do non-visually.
> But I had hoped that I might be able to get the plug-in cord that would go
> to the CD player, and splice the wires for the audio and patch in an
eighth
> inch plug.
> Glenn.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Muth" <rockbox_at_muth.cc>
> To: <rockbox_at_cool.haxx.se>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 8:59 PM
> Subject: Re: JukeBox in the car
>
>
> How much of an electrical engineer are you?
>
> I modified the cassette deck in my Dodge Intrepid to allow for line in.
> The cassette deck controller board was connected to the main board in the
> radio with a
> 10 pin (IDE like) cable. One wire was ground, one was left, and another
one
> was right.
> Unfortunately the left and right were were fluctuating around 10 volts and
> not 0 volts like
> the ear out of the jukebox. I used two (one for left and one for right)
> 25V/3300uF caps to
> couple the ~0 volt audio onto the ~10 volt audio lines. I clipped the
left
> and right lines coming
> from the cassette deck after I had fully scoped the cable and knew what
each
> wire was. To keep
> the caps from charging to the 10 volts, I put 100Kohm pull down resistors
on
> the line in
> side of the caps.
>
> It seems to need a minute or so after power on before I plug the JB in, or
> the audio will become rather bad.
> It had lots of distortion, static and such. I think what happens is that
> the whole cap gets driven to 10
> volts and the pull down resistors slowly pull the low side of the cap back
> to zero. After that, the audio
> is be great. I think I should have use smaller pull down resistors on the
> low side of the cap
> to more firmly pull it low (this is what the JB does and messes up the
> audio), and the proper pull up
> resistors on the high side to keep the cap from being pulled to ground
> (opposite of what happens now)
> by the pull downs. Though, attaching the high side of the audio lines to
> the power rail (via resistors)
> could have been problematic. As it is now it works great, I just have to
> wait a minute before I can use it.
>
> -Chris
>
> On 1/14/04 at 7:32 PM Glenn Ervin at Home wrote:
>
> >Hi,
> >I am now using a Ford Taurus with a stereo that allows for a CD player to
> >be
> >plugged into it, I think the connection might be in the trunk.
> >But what I am wondering is if anyone knows if there is a way to connect
an
> >audio source, like my JBR into the stereo directly, such as in the back
of
> >the stereo.
> >I would rather not use one of those cassette devices, as they are a
hassle,
> >and after a while, they ware out.
> >Thanks.
> >
> >Glenn.
>
>
>
>

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