Rockbox mail archiveSubject: Re: Repairing a broken Recorder LCD Screen
From: Mat Holton (mathew.holton_at_surface-inspection.com)
Someone should compile these guides into a pretty page on the Rockbox website...
-----Original Message-----From: Touillaud Nicolas <Nicolas.Touillaud_at_fr.thalesgroup.com>To: Rockbox development <rockbox_at_cool.haxx.se>Sent: 13/04/2004 09:14Subject: RE: Repairing a broken Recorder LCD ScreenScarry indeed :) but this guide may be really helpfull, thanks !
De : Peter van Hardenberg [mailto:pvh_at_uvic.ca]
Envoyé : vendredi 9 avril 2004 01:09
Objet : Repairing a broken Recorder LCD Screen
My LCD screen broke, I know I'm not alone, so at dwihno's suggestion, I'm
typing up this information so everyone else can benefit too.
Okay, your LCD is broken, but the 'box still works. Now what?
PART 1: Getting a new screen.
You're going to need a new LCD, but odds are you don't have a clue where to
Part number: G112064-30
Manufacturer: Shing Yih Technologies, Taiwan
Unless you're buying a few hundred, I don't think Shing Yih is going to
listen to you. Instead, I recommend you shop at:
For me, a replacement LCD was $24USD with shipping. (Archos wants $60
minimum just to look at it.)
PART 2: Disassembling the Frame
This is written up well on the rockbox site, but you will need a #10 Torx
bit (check your hardware store) and a small Phillip's head screwdriver to
take the box apart.
PART 3: Desoldering
There are a total of eight points you will need to desolder. They are three
on each side of the metal frame holding the electronics, and two at the top
end. The side points are structural, but the top two (which are on either
side of the microphone) supply power to the hard drive. I am not going to
tell you how to desolder a joint. That is up to you. I found it helpful to
use a small tool to lift up the joints as I worked, seperating the side ones
individually and then gradually working out the top ones. I certainly hope
you are more competant at desoldering than I.
The two electronics boards inside the Archos are connected by a paralell
connector, much like the one you find on the back of your hard drives,
though without the cable. This is why even desoldered the boards will stick
together. Carefully seperate the two boards. They are connected by several
wires. Don't break them.
NOTE: The two connections at the top (by the microphone) have wires embedded
in them. This won't make your life any easier.
NOTE: If you remove the tape in the battery compartment while you work, make
sure you replace it with something afterwards! (A couple strips of simple
scotch tape worked for me.)
BE CAREFUL not to break the end boards off while you work!
Again, the rockbox site has some handy pictures, though this section is for
the non-recorder model and is a bit uninformative.
PART 3: The New LCD
Remove the old LCD cable. There are two little clips (one on each side of
the connector) that can be gently pushed out to free the strip connector.
When you put the new LCD in, make sure you have the right orientation
(duh) and also make sure the connection is tight before you clip it back
down. This part is probably the easiest of the whole affair. Be careful with
the plastic frame under the LCD, as it seems a bit fragile.
PART 4: Test!
Don't solder it all back together yet. Re-seat the top electronics board so
the parallel connector is snug. (Watch out for those pins by the microphone!
Now you can plug the unit into the AC adapter to see if the LCD works. You
should get a message on the LCD saying "ATA Error" or something to that
effect. This means the LCD is sitting correctly and you can proceed to
reassemble. If not, go back to part 3.
PART 5: Resolder
UNPLUG the archos. (Just thought I'd better reiterate.)
Resolder the two top connections (the ones by the mic).
PLUG the archos back in. The hard drive should spin up. Nothing much more
will happen until you put the batteries in though. (I think, I can't quite
Okay, good. Unplug the Archos again.
IMPORTANT: When you resolder the frame points, make sure you don't leave any
pointy bits of solder poking into where the batteries run. I did, and they
scraped the plastic off my batteries, shorted out against the frame, melted
the inside of one of the bumpers a bit (smoking and smelling
awfully) and just about scared me to death. This is also why you need to put
the tape back on if you removed it.
PART 6: Reassemble the Archos!
Put the archos back together, taking care not to bend anything. The rubber
bumpers are tricky, but I think there are some notes on the rockbox site
about how to put them on the right way.
Victory at last! You're done! Now go to the rockbox site and update your
firmware, I bet it's out of date!
In the end, this cost me much less than sending it in to someone qualified,
but was also a hell of a lot scarier. I think I learned a few things about
my Archos though, and I look forward to trying some of the other mods.
I'm sure there are people out there (real pros) who are horrified at what I
have written. Please, correct any mistakes I have made in this document so
future 'boxers don't have to go through the hours of stress and strain I
Page was last modified "Jan 10 2012" The Rockbox Crew