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Subject: Re: Repairing a broken Recorder LCD Screen

Re: Repairing a broken Recorder LCD Screen

From: Mat Holton <>
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 09:22:34 +0100

Someone should compile these guides into a pretty page on the Rockbox website...

-----Original Message-----From: Touillaud Nicolas <>To: Rockbox development <>Sent: 13/04/2004 09:14Subject: RE: Repairing a broken Recorder LCD ScreenScarry indeed :) but this guide may be really helpfull, thanks !

-----Message d'origine-----

De : Peter van Hardenberg []

Envoyé : vendredi 9 avril 2004 01:09

À :

Objet : Repairing a broken Recorder LCD Screen

My LCD screen broke, I know I'm not alone, so at dwihno's suggestion, I'm

typing up this information so everyone else can benefit too.

Okay, your LCD is broken, but the 'box still works. Now what?

PART 1: Getting a new screen.

You're going to need a new LCD, but odds are you don't have a clue where to

get one.

Part number: G112064-30

Manufacturer: Shing Yih Technologies, Taiwan

Unless you're buying a few hundred, I don't think Shing Yih is going to

listen to you. Instead, I recommend you shop at:

For me, a replacement LCD was $24USD with shipping. (Archos wants $60

minimum just to look at it.)

PART 2: Disassembling the Frame

This is written up well on the rockbox site, but you will need a #10 Torx

bit (check your hardware store) and a small Phillip's head screwdriver to

take the box apart.

PART 3: Desoldering

There are a total of eight points you will need to desolder. They are three

on each side of the metal frame holding the electronics, and two at the top

end. The side points are structural, but the top two (which are on either

side of the microphone) supply power to the hard drive. I am not going to

tell you how to desolder a joint. That is up to you. I found it helpful to

use a small tool to lift up the joints as I worked, seperating the side ones

individually and then gradually working out the top ones. I certainly hope

you are more competant at desoldering than I.

The two electronics boards inside the Archos are connected by a paralell

connector, much like the one you find on the back of your hard drives,

though without the cable. This is why even desoldered the boards will stick

together. Carefully seperate the two boards. They are connected by several

wires. Don't break them.

NOTE: The two connections at the top (by the microphone) have wires embedded

in them. This won't make your life any easier.

NOTE: If you remove the tape in the battery compartment while you work, make

sure you replace it with something afterwards! (A couple strips of simple

scotch tape worked for me.)

BE CAREFUL not to break the end boards off while you work!

Again, the rockbox site has some handy pictures, though this section is for

the non-recorder model and is a bit uninformative.

PART 3: The New LCD

Remove the old LCD cable. There are two little clips (one on each side of

the connector) that can be gently pushed out to free the strip connector.

When you put the new LCD in, make sure you have the right orientation

(duh) and also make sure the connection is tight before you clip it back

down. This part is probably the easiest of the whole affair. Be careful with

the plastic frame under the LCD, as it seems a bit fragile.

PART 4: Test!

Don't solder it all back together yet. Re-seat the top electronics board so

the parallel connector is snug. (Watch out for those pins by the microphone!

Now you can plug the unit into the AC adapter to see if the LCD works. You

should get a message on the LCD saying "ATA Error" or something to that

effect. This means the LCD is sitting correctly and you can proceed to

reassemble. If not, go back to part 3.

PART 5: Resolder

UNPLUG the archos. (Just thought I'd better reiterate.)

Resolder the two top connections (the ones by the mic).

PLUG the archos back in. The hard drive should spin up. Nothing much more

will happen until you put the batteries in though. (I think, I can't quite


Okay, good. Unplug the Archos again.

IMPORTANT: When you resolder the frame points, make sure you don't leave any

pointy bits of solder poking into where the batteries run. I did, and they

scraped the plastic off my batteries, shorted out against the frame, melted

the inside of one of the bumpers a bit (smoking and smelling

awfully) and just about scared me to death. This is also why you need to put

the tape back on if you removed it.

PART 6: Reassemble the Archos!

Put the archos back together, taking care not to bend anything. The rubber

bumpers are tricky, but I think there are some notes on the rockbox site

about how to put them on the right way.

Victory at last! You're done! Now go to the rockbox site and update your

firmware, I bet it's out of date!


In the end, this cost me much less than sending it in to someone qualified,

but was also a hell of a lot scarier. I think I learned a few things about

my Archos though, and I look forward to trying some of the other mods.

I'm sure there are people out there (real pros) who are horrified at what I

have written. Please, correct any mistakes I have made in this document so

future 'boxers don't have to go through the hours of stress and strain I


Peter van Hardenberg (pvh)
Ph: 480-8260 Email:
UVic student, geoscience support programmer, and web designer "The wise man
proportions his belief to the evidence." -- David Hume
"Life's just a mood ring we're not allowed to see."
 They Might Be Giants.
Surface Inspection Ltd
Received on 2004-04-13

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