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Subject: Re: Buying a rockbox machine

Re: Buying a rockbox machine

From: Neon John <>
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 03:02:20 -0500

On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 21:12:11 -0800, "Grant Hardy"
<> wrote:

>Bravo John! My thoughts exactly. Even by touching it you can tell it's
>VERY rugged!
>Now here's my question, HOW and WHERE to you buy a drive for the Archos
>Jukebox V1?

It's a standard 2.5" laptop drive. I'm quite partial to Toshiba
drives. Very low power consumption and quite rugged. The part number
for the 80 gig drive is MK8025GAS. I can't seem to find the number
for the 100 gig drive in my records but you can look around the net
for it.

I use Cnet to price compare when I buy a drive. It usually comes down
to Page Computing or Newegg. Everywhere else Newegg will be the
cheapest but for some reason they collect sales tax for TN. I'd
expect to pay about $100 for a 100gig drive. Maybe $70 for the 80

>And how would you replace it, or could you have someone else do
>it? How much would that be? Thanks.

Pop the covers, lift up the drive, slide it out, slide the new one in,
pop the covers back on. It took me probably 30 minutes to do the
first one. Now I can do it in maybe 5 minutes if I have my power
screwdriver handy. I use an external USB2 to EIDE adapter to format
and load the drive before I install it. This adapter is faster than
the Archos USB hardware plus I can exercise the drive to make sure
it's OK before opening the JBR. I got my adapter from NewEgg for
about $30.

One caution: The little black screws on the ends thread into the
PCBs. There is no metal in the holes. Ergo, they strip VERY easily.
Tighten them very gently.

While you have the cover off, check the power jack. Every one of my
JBRs that I've had apart had the jack canted off the board a little.
That forces the solder connections to withstand all the physical
stress. I pinch the connector against the board with needle nose
pliers while touching the solder pads with an iron. That fits the
jack tightly against the PCB.

Lately I've started another step that seems to have made the jack at
least as strong as the PCB. I put a drop of thin modeler's superglue
where the jack meets the board and then hit it with a bit of
accelerator. This instantly sets the superglue and locks the jack to
the board. I use the water-thin variety of superglue and the
accelerator that goes with it, available at hobby shops. Capillary
action pulls the glue into the joint.
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
Received on 2006-02-15

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