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Subject: Re: Buying a rockbox machine

Re: Buying a rockbox machine

From: Grant Hardy <>
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 16:54:20 -0800

WHOA, is that really hard? I have NEVER opened up an MP3 player or even a
laptop before!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neon John" <>
To: "Rockbox" <>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 12:02 AM
Subject: Re: Buying a rockbox machine

> On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 21:12:11 -0800, "Grant Hardy"
> <> wrote:
>>Bravo John! My thoughts exactly. Even by touching it you can tell it's
>>VERY rugged!
>>Now here's my question, HOW and WHERE to you buy a drive for the Archos
>>Jukebox V1?
> It's a standard 2.5" laptop drive. I'm quite partial to Toshiba
> drives. Very low power consumption and quite rugged. The part number
> for the 80 gig drive is MK8025GAS. I can't seem to find the number
> for the 100 gig drive in my records but you can look around the net
> for it.
> I use Cnet to price compare when I buy a drive. It usually comes down
> to Page Computing or Newegg. Everywhere else Newegg will be the
> cheapest but for some reason they collect sales tax for TN. I'd
> expect to pay about $100 for a 100gig drive. Maybe $70 for the 80
> gig.
>>And how would you replace it, or could you have someone else do
>>it? How much would that be? Thanks.
> Pop the covers, lift up the drive, slide it out, slide the new one in,
> pop the covers back on. It took me probably 30 minutes to do the
> first one. Now I can do it in maybe 5 minutes if I have my power
> screwdriver handy. I use an external USB2 to EIDE adapter to format
> and load the drive before I install it. This adapter is faster than
> the Archos USB hardware plus I can exercise the drive to make sure
> it's OK before opening the JBR. I got my adapter from NewEgg for
> about $30.
> One caution: The little black screws on the ends thread into the
> PCBs. There is no metal in the holes. Ergo, they strip VERY easily.
> Tighten them very gently.
> While you have the cover off, check the power jack. Every one of my
> JBRs that I've had apart had the jack canted off the board a little.
> That forces the solder connections to withstand all the physical
> stress. I pinch the connector against the board with needle nose
> pliers while touching the solder pads with an iron. That fits the
> jack tightly against the PCB.
> Lately I've started another step that seems to have made the jack at
> least as strong as the PCB. I put a drop of thin modeler's superglue
> where the jack meets the board and then hit it with a bit of
> accelerator. This instantly sets the superglue and locks the jack to
> the board. I use the water-thin variety of superglue and the
> accelerator that goes with it, available at hobby shops. Capillary
> action pulls the glue into the joint.
> ---
> John De Armond
> See my website for my current email address
> Cleveland, Occupied TN
> A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo
> Emerson
Received on 2006-02-16

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