From: Bluechip <csbluechip_at_gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 01:14:44 +0000

Four screws and a slide-together connector.
The rest is patience and bit of care.
If you can change the spark plugs in your car, you're probably
overqualified for this task :)

>WHOA, is that really hard? I have NEVER opened up an MP3 player or
>even a laptop before!!
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Neon John" <jgd_at_johngsbbq.com>
>To: "Rockbox" <rockbox_at_cool.haxx.se>
>Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 12:02 AM
>Subject: Re: Buying a rockbox machine
>
>
>>On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 21:12:11 -0800, "Grant Hardy"
>><granthardy_at_gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Bravo John! My thoughts exactly. Even by touching it you can tell it's
>>>VERY rugged!
>>>Now here's my question, HOW and WHERE to you buy a drive for the Archos
>>>Jukebox V1?
>>
>>It's a standard 2.5" laptop drive. I'm quite partial to Toshiba
>>drives. Very low power consumption and quite rugged. The part number
>>for the 80 gig drive is MK8025GAS. I can't seem to find the number
>>for the 100 gig drive in my records but you can look around the net
>>for it.
>>
>>I use Cnet to price compare when I buy a drive. It usually comes down
>>to Page Computing or Newegg. Everywhere else Newegg will be the
>>cheapest but for some reason they collect sales tax for TN. I'd
>>expect to pay about $100 for a 100gig drive. Maybe $70 for the 80
>>gig.
>>
>>
>>>And how would you replace it, or could you have someone else do
>>>it? How much would that be? Thanks.
>>
>>Pop the covers, lift up the drive, slide it out, slide the new one in,
>>pop the covers back on. It took me probably 30 minutes to do the
>>first one. Now I can do it in maybe 5 minutes if I have my power
>>screwdriver handy. I use an external USB2 to EIDE adapter to format
>>and load the drive before I install it. This adapter is faster than
>>the Archos USB hardware plus I can exercise the drive to make sure
>>it's OK before opening the JBR. I got my adapter from NewEgg for
>>about $30.
>>
>>One caution: The little black screws on the ends thread into the
>>PCBs. There is no metal in the holes. Ergo, they strip VERY easily.
>>Tighten them very gently.
>>
>>While you have the cover off, check the power jack. Every one of my
>>JBRs that I've had apart had the jack canted off the board a little.
>>That forces the solder connections to withstand all the physical
>>stress. I pinch the connector against the board with needle nose
>>pliers while touching the solder pads with an iron. That fits the
>>jack tightly against the PCB.
>>
>>Lately I've started another step that seems to have made the jack at
>>least as strong as the PCB. I put a drop of thin modeler's superglue
>>where the jack meets the board and then hit it with a bit of
>>accelerator. This instantly sets the superglue and locks the jack to
>>the board. I use the water-thin variety of superglue and the
>>accelerator that goes with it, available at hobby shops. Capillary
>>action pulls the glue into the joint.
>>---
>>John De Armond
>>See my website for my current email address
>>http://www.johngsbbq.com
>>Cleveland, Occupied TN
>>A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
Received on 2006-02-16