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Subject: Re: An old new experience

Re: An old new experience

From: Rocker <>
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 06:00:58 -0700

Neon John wrote:
> As I noted yesterday, both my trusty old JBR and its backup quit.
> Fortunately I'd planned for such dire emergencies.
> I got to do what is for most folks, a long gone act - I broke the
> shrink wrap off the box of a brand new JBR, one of the ones I hoarded
> when production ended. What a nifty experience :-)
> I had forgotten just how bad the Archos firmware was. Ditto that old
> Hitachi hard drive. I stuck ROMbox and the audio book I'd been
> listening to on the original drive and used it for a day. Gawd, what
> a boat anchor. I thought the drive was crashing every time it parked
> the head. And battery life was back down to a lousy 8 hours or so
> playing 32kbps book files.
> I dug the low power Toshiba 100 gig drive out of the failed unit and
> placed it in the new one. Nirvana! Almost total silence and battery
> life is back in the 16 hour range.
> BTW, for cloning a drive, this freebie utility is very nice.
> This utility is not a sector copier. It copies files just like xcopy
> but does tricks to copy the registry and other windows files when
> cloning a windows boot drive. A major feature of file-by-file copy is
> that it inherently defrags the destination drive.
> Anyway, I've serviced/upgraded quite a few JBRs, mine and others, and
> have developed a procedure for making it last a long time. This
> procedure addresses the mechanically faulty points.
> On just about every JBR I've opened up that has had any use at all has
> had the earphone jack, the power jack or both at least a little loose.
> They're held down by tiny, thin solder webs that are easily broken by
> force on the jacks. The same situation exists for the board-to-board
> connections at the battery connectors.
> The first thing I do to each jack is apply an alligator clip to press
> the jack tightly against the board. I resolder each connection. Then
> I apply thin superglue to the juncture between the jack and board and
> touch it with a drop of accelerator after the glue wicks in. This
> practically welds the jack to the board. I've never had one break
> free even when dropping the unit and having it land on a connector.
> I do a similar thing to the board junctions at the battery connectors.
> These joints are HIGHLY stressed, as the batteries significantly flex
> the boards. First, I grip the device in a Panvice. Then I apply a
> weight to press the end board onto the side board. A touch of the
> soldering iron and some flux reflows the solder. Then I peel back the
> metallic tape in the battery compartment to expose the back side of
> the joint. I clean it with alcohol and then run a fairly heavy bead
> of medium thickness superglue (hobby shop) to make a fillet between
> the boards. A touch of accelerator makes it set instantly.
> This forms an extremely rigid and strong joint and yet it can be
> released if necessary with some superglue remover or acetone.
> The last thing I do is gently squeeze the opening of the headphone
> jack with smooth jaw needle nose pliers while gently heating the
> plastic with hot air using an SMT hot air needle with the heat turned
> down. The objective is to make the opening slightly oval so as to
> tightly grip the headphone jack. This eliminates the annoying problem
> of the cord pulling out during vigorous activities.
> Button 'er up and she's ready.

LOL dude yyour the king of mods man. When my battery goes on the IHP-140
can I send it to you for replacement? Or ar you just an Archos man? Sure
wish I could see so I could tinker like that. Well Ive got my drum kit
project I'm working on. A Falican rack with floating everything including a
really wild modified remote hat.

Good work man. You should be grabbing old unis for parts off of Ebay and
fixing them up for resale.


> John
> ---
> John De Armond
> See my website for my current email address
> Cleveland, Occupied TN
> Don't let your schooling interfere with your education-Mark Twain
Received on 2006-11-27

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