From: Rocker <rocker_at_shaw.ca>
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 15:47:08 -0700

Well,

Iriver will replace the battery if your prepared to ship the player to them.

I must say that I use my player every day. I have had my player running
rockbox since the platform was supported and the battery is still going
strong.

rocker
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brent Harding" <bharding_at_doorpi.net>
To: <christof_at_infinitus.co.uk>; "Rockbox" <rockbox_at_cool.haxx.se>
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: An old new experience


Are there companies out there that one can send old discontinued players
like 120's and 140's to to get repaired if the drive or battery would quit
working one day? I imagine the drive in the 120 is between the boards too,
so repair by a blind guy like me would be next to impossible. I was thinking
of getting a couple more on Ebay as I could afford them because they're
good, rare, and discontinued.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Woods" <christof_at_infinitus.co.uk>
To: "'Rockbox'" <rockbox_at_cool.haxx.se>
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 11:44 PM
Subject: RE: An old new experience


> The H140 is a total pain in the arse to take apart - the hard drive is
> sandwiched between two layers of PCB, all the screws are tiny Torx screws
> (of varying lengths), to get the hard drive into its seat (and connected
> to
> the mini-ATA connector) is an absolute mission - and it's night on
> impossible to remove the battery connection without the constant worry
> that
> you're going to do permanent damage to the PCB part (the 'socket' part) of
> the connector. When my player froze (totally froze, reset button wouldn't
> do
> anything either) I had to take it apart - while it was still on! - and
> short
> out the pins from the battery connection to the PCB. Oh, and to do this I
> had to remove the hard drive - with the power still on (!!) - so I could
> get
> to the battery connector, which is wisely on the underside of the bottom
> PCB
> layer.
>
> It was an absolute mission putting it all back together - the side buttons
> have their own little strip panel, and you have to make sure it's all
> perfectly aligned when you put it back together. I'm not saying it's
> impossible (after all, a new like me managed it), but I wouldn't want to
> do
> it again any time soon unless it was absolutely necessitated.
>
> I'm sure I took some photos, lemme see if they're around here somewhere...
> Aha: http://kerblam.co.uk/pictures/iriverh140inbits/
>
> I took some shots to identify chips used on the PCB (I thought I might as
> well, even though they're full-documented on the Rockbox site, there's
> always the off chance that particular components might be different). Most
> of the other shots show: the dimensions of the hard drive compared to a 2p
> piece, the hard drive in situ with its blue rubber shock shield on (that's
> a
> PAIN to get on and off, and you have to take it off to remove the hard
> drive
> to get to the battery compartment). You can also see the battery -> PCB
> connector, and how mangled I made it through trying to (carefully, mind)
> extract it with tweezers, various small tools... I had no luck at all
> whatsoever, and ended up giving up and just shorting the pins leading onto
> the PCB as I mentioned above (risky, I know, but needs must).
>
> And yeah, there are wires really flimsily-soldered onto the PCB for the
> side
> panel buttons, which you have to wrap the wires for around the side of the
> PCBs in just the right place, otherwise the entire case won't shut
> properly... Arg, I did get the overwhelming sensation that they weren't
> really designed for re-closure once opened ;)
>
> Hope these photos are of some use to someone.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Neon John [mailto:jgd_at_johngsbbq.com]
>> Sent: 28 November 2006 16:17
>> To: Rockbox
>> Subject: Re: An old new experience
>>
>> On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 06:00:58 -0700, Rocker <rocker_at_shaw.ca> wrote:
>>
>>
>> >> The last thing I do is gently squeeze the opening of the headphone
>> >> jack with smooth jaw needle nose pliers while gently heating the
>> >> plastic with hot air using an SMT hot air needle with the
>> heat turned
>> >> down. The objective is to make the opening slightly oval so as to
>> >> tightly grip the headphone jack. This eliminates the annoying
>> >> problem of the cord pulling out during vigorous activities.
>> >>
>> >> Button 'er up and she's ready.
>> >
>> >LOL dude yyour the king of mods man. When my battery goes on the
>> >IHP-140 can I send it to you for replacement? Or ar you
>> just an Archos man?
>>
>> Perhaps, depending on what I'm doing at the time. I've never
>> seen an Iriver in person but I suppose it comes apart like
>> most other small electronic gadgets.
>>
>> >Sure
>> >wish I could see so I could tinker like that. Well Ive got
>> my drum kit
>> >project I'm working on.
>>
>> I hear ya. My eyes have gotten bad enough that I have to use
>> a stereoscope to do PCB work that I could do with naked eyes
>> not that many years ago. Impending geezerdom is a b*tch!
>>
>> >A Falican rack with floating everything including a really wild
>> >modified remote hat.
>>
>> How's that in English? :-)
>>
>> >
>> >Good work man. You should be grabbing old unis for parts
>> off of Ebay
>> >and fixing them up for resale.
>>
>> Too much like work and besides, I don't do sleazebay. I
>> retired from all workified-type stuff about 6 months ago.
>> I'm now seeing the country by wheeling around an 18-wheel
>> rig. Lovin' it. The JBR sure gets a workout.
>>
>> John
>> ---
>> John De Armond
>> See my website for my current email address
>> http://www.neon-john.com Cleveland, Occupied TN Don't let
>> your schooling interfere with your education-Mark Twain
>
>
Received on 2006-11-29